Wines in the 17th Century

The Wines about Paris are very small, yet good in their kind; those de Surene are excellent some Years; but in all the Taverns they have a way to make them into a fashion of Champagne and Burgundy.

The Tax upon Wines is now so great, that whereas before the War they drank them at Retail at 5 d. the Quart, and now sell them at 15 d. the Quart, and dearer, which has enhanced the Rates of call Commodities, and Workmens Wages; and also caused many thousand private Families to lay in Wines in their cellars at the cheapest hand, which used to have none before.

The Wines of Burgundy and Champagne are most valued; and indeed not without reason; for they are light and easie upon the Stomach, and give little disturbance to the Brain, if drawn from the Hogshead, or loose bottled after their fashion.

The most esteemed Vin de Bonne of Burgundy, a red wine; which is Dolce Piquante in some measure, to me it seemed the very best Wine I met with.

Volne, a pale Champagne, but exceeding brisk upon the Palate. This is said to grow upon the very borders of Burgundy, and to participate of the Excellency of both Counties.

There is another sort of Wine, called Vin de Rhemins, this is also a pale or grey Wine; it is harsh, as all Champagne Wines are.

The White Wines of value are those of Mascon in Burgundy.

Mulso in Champagne, a small and not unpleasant White Wine.

Chabri is a quick and sharp White Wine, well esteemed.

From "A Journey to Paris in 1698" by Martin Lister.